Holly Fulton Fall Winter 2010 / 2011

With Holly I'm starting my LFW highlights and givings an ending to NYFW. This young english designer is presenting her first collection after being discovered and having the posibility to show her designs in the Fashion East 09 edition.
This time she keeps her style, hardly influenced by a postmodern reinvention of Art Decó in bright colors and lots of graphism. Orange, yellow in warm and cold shades, turquoise, pastel pink and grape gray. Architectural inspirations aface in prints and graphics in embroidered plastic evening dresses and blouses. Short haired fabrics warms bottoms and tops, and the Art Decó delight floods accesories in gaudy shades and geometrical shapes.

Rad Hourani Fall Winter 2010 / 2011

It's unnecessary to explain that Rad Hourani goes black from head to toe once more. With total black, skinny bottoms and homogeneity of gender as his personal signs the jordanian young designer presented at New York Fashion Week his designs for Fall 2010 where adrogyni reigns.
Pure and ethereal lines redefines a new sexuality where sexual characters get suppressed and a new kind of human emerge from gloom to light. Asymmetries, leather pieces and many layers of clothes gives personality to the line while metal zippers and turtle necks invades the runway. Square shapes at the top in opposition with the languidness of the slim legs.
Men in heels and human without eye brows is for Rad the next step to the future in the evolution of our race.

Boy by Band of Outsiders Fall Winter 2010 / 2011

In my opinion this collection is full of fashion don'ts but I'm amazed about how they made them work making an interesting show. A basic sporty outwear feelling printed in simple pieces as crew neck sweaters, trench coats, uniform blazers and camping vests paired with luxury touches as rabbit fur multicolor vest, cargo dressing pants and a short multistriped long sleeved dress creates a boyish femenine girl. Maybe it's only me but I see a Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière influence. The way to mix sporty fabrics with dressing skirts, the glasses, the vest with pockets over the mini graphic dress, the masculine fitting pants. No other shoes could have worked better with the clothes than the ones picked. Those amazing strapy high-heeled platforms over wool stockings.
Optic patterns in different colors, male golf shoes and big scarves add some styling to stay cool in winter.

Acne Fall Winter 2010 / 2011

Android chic? yes, that's all about. For fall 2010 Acne presents a collection inspired, as the designer Jonny Johansson confessed, by The Clone Wars.
I'm not so into it, but I find a very interesting bodyshape investigation. Big shoulders, skinny trousers in opposition with fallen shoulders and zippered baggy harmem-like pants. Loose tailoring and patchwork-like primitive long haired jackets gives the models an ancient animal look reinforced by metal paint and greasy glitter make-up. Suburbian touches like graffity arty works as prints in trousers and dresses and scarves as hoods styled with worker-like eroded jumpsuits.
The galaxy trip continues with star prints and colors and cream, moss, gray and black to end up in bare platforms with metal pieces.

Helmut Lang Fall Winter 2010 / 2011

A nordic spirit has possessed Helmut Lang this season. Tons of black, gray and dark green are the colors that redefines a new motorcycle style. Wool, fur, leather and cotton materialize the clothes in a very fitted way. Leggins and ultra skinny jeans paired with dressing trousers. Asymmetric rider and tailoring jackets over sprinkled forest chic prints. The short lenght silhouette gets improved by drappings and shape tricks. Organic cuts and high black boots complete a superb collection where brands as Zara will find source of "inpiration".

Proenza Schouler Fall Winter 2010 / 2011

I've fall in love again with Proenza Schouler's collection. For this fall Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough had presented a show where naive and optical prints rules. Graffity/snowed jeans, fur details in collars and that sporty outwear chic spirit gets together to give life to winter.
Like mountain children the models walked the runway in superhigh platforms and high black stockings. The styling was completed with the P.S 11 bag, a new version of P.S 1. There were also school uniform references and fully pleated skirts in a very innocent but sexy way.
Dark shades of navy blue, green and gray got lighted by touches of white and vibrant colors as electric blue and shrill violet. At last subtracted girly dresses over sweatshirts and those twisted nature prints closed the show and confirmed Proenza Schouler as one of the latest New York Fashion Week promesses.

Rodarte Fall Winter 2010 / 2011

Well what can I say about this collection. I liked the concept, those candles in the background, the styling and the prints/textures they picked. Shades of dark red, nude, camel, brown, pearl, cream and white seems to be their preferences. In what prints means the collection was full of all types of plaids, vintage flower prints, and tartans. An explotion of texture, with pieces, crochet knitings and wool fringes.
But to be honest the clothes looks poorly executed. They doesn't look designed by a graduted designer. The exploration of fabric's meeting doesn't even look tought and the shapes are really poor. Collection after collection they don't show an evolution. The clothes looks rough and they doesn´t fit the body what cause a lack of harmony in the entire collection. And it's such a pity because they have a great potential. At design exploring they get good results but I think the finished product isn't as good as it should. Anyway, Rodarte is a brand in who I trust and I hope it to get one thousand times better.

Marc Jacobs Fall Winter 2010 / 2011

Here comes the Fall. Starting with the rain of shows here is Marc Jacob's fall winter 2010 2011. Metalics, furs and wool gives life to this classic colection. Suits and long skirts with touches of embelishments turns into spot to dress the masculine woman of Marc. Yellow, but basically gray ,steel, soft blue and creamy shades are the colors that Marc has chosen for this fall. Melangee wools in sweaters and suits, and sequins full covered cardigans seems to be the key pieces to protect yourself from cold.

Alexander Wang Prefall 2010

Alexander is one of those designers who didn't follow the color as a trend introducing a collection where black is the king and some shades of gray. Asymmetries, narrow bottoms, leather, oversized tops and a bit of see-through fabrics.

Celine Prefall 2010

Celine by Phoebe Philo has presented it's prefall 2010 collection stared by incredible feather pieces, elegant coats, hunter capes and narrow leg trousers.
Brown, black, sandle and some shades of yellow as main colors in a collection that mix some classic dressing pieces as jackets, cardigans and coats with a sign of sportive clothing.
Classic, elegant and chic with the very Philo style.

Balenciaga Prefall 2010

Balenciaga, balenciaga, balenciaga... it's prefall time and you did it again, how many times I've already told you that you can't have the most incredible collections ever?!
Architectural coats, bright tights, geometrical jackects, drapped pants, and multilayered miniskirts. Prints as a trend is coming back after a season of retreat incarnate in irregular stripes, landscapes, dots, artworks, and astract images. Bright primary colors are coming back into the spot, as orange, yellow, red and green. But in a very Cristobal way, Nicolas decided to mix them up with some of the favourites colors of spanish paintors as Goya and Velázquez. So, here is where shades of bottle green, camel, earthy brown, and clay comes into the scene getting as result an eclectic range. And of course, the basics and unmissables black and gray.
ps: i'm glad that a fellow contrywoman of mine could achieve to be the first argentine who model for Balenciaga. I'm talking about Naomi Preizler, the girl in yellow tights in the second picture. I think she doesn't look her best here, her face isn't looking great but it's great to see her doing this kind of jobs.

Prada menswear fall/winter 2010 review

As everyone should know, yesterday's night the well online based Prada transmitted via internet in live mode her menswear collection for season winter 2010 2011 and of course i was behind my computer screen seeing the show.
I have to admit i'm not kind a menswear fashion follower because is strange to me to see some heart-breaking pieces in menswear collections, and that disapoints me a little bit. Anyway, I could never say no to a fashion show and specially this one left some bitter-sweet taste in my mouth. Overall I liked it, but it wasn't a big surprise.
What have I seen? the typical clean and restrained Prada tailoring mixed with knitwear. Plain colors as black, gray, cream and camel were the main ones contrasted against optical patterns, melange wools and vibrant touches of pink, purple, dark red, green and yellow. Wide coats with double collar over tiny crew neck sweaters, unwasted straight leg trousers and melange textured cardigans with waist lace that reminds of 50's italian menswear.
And here you have the full show brought by Prada´s own youtube channel.

Dolce and Gabbana S/S 09: BackStage Video

I didn't like this collection at all, but I found this video and I think it could be interesting.
In this collection Dolce and Gabbana takes as inspiration the relaxed fit of sleepwear to mix it up with more stronger ideas like geometry and coats. Lingerie comes out, platforms appears, luxury takes a part and flowers blossoms literally over the clothes.
I think, this collection shares some particularities with Marc Jacob's collection for the S/S 09. Both ones shows similar shapes and prints.
Anyway, I think that Dolce and Gabbana with this show is trying to show that they can design for intellectual women.

photo credits: style.com

Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 09

Im not a fan of Pugh's designs. But this colection have something that i cannot explain but i like.
Contrast, that's all about. Future and past, white fronts and black backs, geometry and curves, ruffs and robots.
But there is something I don't like. The collection was totally theatrical, a good point to correct is that. If the outffits were more casuals, I think it would be better.

Balenciaga Fall/Winter 08

Yes, I know. It could be a bit "late" for the fashion time to post this. But as you should now by now, this is not a blog for being a fashion victim. This is a blog for art victims, for ideas victims.
Some days ago I started thinking about the collection fall/winter 08 of Balenciaga's House. And I decided to make a post about that collection.

As you know, Ghesquiere is always looking back into the house's archives, to have the clue to complete the fashion puzzle of modernity. The collections are always elegant, and extremely chic.
For this collection, the warrior soul strikes again, under the face of samurais as inspiration. And materials as plastic appears in a strongerly way, more literally. Even sports have them place in the collection. Taking the idea of "little black dress" for the begining, Ghesquiere develop the inspiration and take that to a whole coat made of... plastic (?) or leather. I think it's refers to the woman that he dress. Is the perfect complement that the sinister woman created in this show would wear, in some way is the idea of the collection in one outfitt.

And then, sports appears. The battle between elegant and sport wear starts for finishing in architectural futuristic evening dresses with shapes very similar to the spring/summer 08 ones. The war between inside and outside continues, reflected in draped tops with very antagonistic fabrics as velvet and lycra.
And for the ending, samurais appears in a very powerful way. Big shouldes, high boots and oriental prints conclude in fit to true dresses that show how powerful is the Balenciaga's woman.

Balenciaga: Reinventing the archive

This is one of the reasons why I love Balenciaga. All the time, Nicolas Ghesquière is researching in the past of this luxury brand and mixing all that pieces of art with the present and, why not, with the future.
Take a look of this video. It's a little part of a Balenciaga's fashion show of spring/summer in the 60's.
Esta es una de las razones por las que me gusta Balenciaga. Todo el tiempo, Nicolas Ghesquière esta buscando en el pasado de esta marca de lujo y mezclando esas piezas de arte con el presente y, por que no, con el futuro.
Mira este video. Es una pequeña parte de un desfile de Balenciaga para la primavera/verano de 1960.

The first silhouettes recalls to Fall 06 where we could see directly the influence of Cristobal's style in the talent of Nicolas.
Las primeras siluetas recuerdan a la coleccion de Invierno 06 donde podemos ver directamente la influencia del estilo de Cristobal en el talento de Nicolas.

And now he did it again. He took the past to the present. Is impossible don't falling in a trance when you see the Spring 2008 collection. The shape and the volume of the clothes reffers to the last outffits of the video. The dresse's prints are like the print of the dress that appears there. The textures of the clothes are amazing. We can notice the soft Japanese inflence mixed with the gladiator's armor strength and a shoes between Peruan and African folk influence.
Y ahora el lo hizo de nuevo. Trajo el pasado al presente. Es imposible no entrar en una suerte de trance al ver la coleccion Primavera/Verano 2008. La forma y el volumen de la ropa refencia a los ultimos conjuntos del video. Los estampados de los vestidos son como la estampa del vestido que aparece alli. Las texturas son asombrosas. Podemos notar la suave influencia japonesa mezclada con la fuerza de una armadura de gladiador y unos zapatos entre lo peruano y lo africano.