19 years old model Wiktor Hansson from Sweden. God, I love that albino hair and his androgynous look.
With Holly I'm starting my LFW highlights and givings an ending to NYFW. This young english designer is presenting her first collection after being discovered and having the posibility to show her designs in the Fashion East 09 edition.
This time she keeps her style, hardly influenced by a postmodern reinvention of Art Decó in bright colors and lots of graphism. Orange, yellow in warm and cold shades, turquoise, pastel pink and grape gray. Architectural inspirations aface in prints and graphics in embroidered plastic evening dresses and blouses. Short haired fabrics warms bottoms and tops, and the Art Decó delight floods accesories in gaudy shades and geometrical shapes.
It's unnecessary to explain that Rad Hourani goes black from head to toe once more. With total black, skinny bottoms and homogeneity of gender as his personal signs the jordanian young designer presented at New York Fashion Week his designs for Fall 2010 where adrogyni reigns.
Pure and ethereal lines redefines a new sexuality where sexual characters get suppressed and a new kind of human emerge from gloom to light. Asymmetries, leather pieces and many layers of clothes gives personality to the line while metal zippers and turtle necks invades the runway. Square shapes at the top in opposition with the languidness of the slim legs.
Men in heels and human without eye brows is for Rad the next step to the future in the evolution of our race.
In my opinion this collection is full of fashion don'ts but I'm amazed about how they made them work making an interesting show. A basic sporty outwear feelling printed in simple pieces as crew neck sweaters, trench coats, uniform blazers and camping vests paired with luxury touches as rabbit fur multicolor vest, cargo dressing pants and a short multistriped long sleeved dress creates a boyish femenine girl. Maybe it's only me but I see a Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière influence. The way to mix sporty fabrics with dressing skirts, the glasses, the vest with pockets over the mini graphic dress, the masculine fitting pants. No other shoes could have worked better with the clothes than the ones picked. Those amazing strapy high-heeled platforms over wool stockings.
Optic patterns in different colors, male golf shoes and big scarves add some styling to stay cool in winter.
Android chic? yes, that's all about. For fall 2010 Acne presents a collection inspired, as the designer Jonny Johansson confessed, by The Clone Wars.
I'm not so into it, but I find a very interesting bodyshape investigation. Big shoulders, skinny trousers in opposition with fallen shoulders and zippered baggy harmem-like pants. Loose tailoring and patchwork-like primitive long haired jackets gives the models an ancient animal look reinforced by metal paint and greasy glitter make-up. Suburbian touches like graffity arty works as prints in trousers and dresses and scarves as hoods styled with worker-like eroded jumpsuits.
The galaxy trip continues with star prints and colors and cream, moss, gray and black to end up in bare platforms with metal pieces.
A nordic spirit has possessed Helmut Lang this season. Tons of black, gray and dark green are the colors that redefines a new motorcycle style. Wool, fur, leather and cotton materialize the clothes in a very fitted way. Leggins and ultra skinny jeans paired with dressing trousers. Asymmetric rider and tailoring jackets over sprinkled forest chic prints. The short lenght silhouette gets improved by drappings and shape tricks. Organic cuts and high black boots complete a superb collection where brands as Zara will find source of "inpiration".
I've fall in love again with Proenza Schouler's collection. For this fall Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough had presented a show where naive and optical prints rules. Graffity/snowed jeans, fur details in collars and that sporty outwear chic spirit gets together to give life to winter.
Like mountain children the models walked the runway in superhigh platforms and high black stockings. The styling was completed with the P.S 11 bag, a new version of P.S 1. There were also school uniform references and fully pleated skirts in a very innocent but sexy way.
Dark shades of navy blue, green and gray got lighted by touches of white and vibrant colors as electric blue and shrill violet. At last subtracted girly dresses over sweatshirts and those twisted nature prints closed the show and confirmed Proenza Schouler as one of the latest New York Fashion Week promesses.
Well what can I say about this collection. I liked the concept, those candles in the background, the styling and the prints/textures they picked. Shades of dark red, nude, camel, brown, pearl, cream and white seems to be their preferences. In what prints means the collection was full of all types of plaids, vintage flower prints, and tartans. An explotion of texture, with pieces, crochet knitings and wool fringes.
But to be honest the clothes looks poorly executed. They doesn't look designed by a graduted designer. The exploration of fabric's meeting doesn't even look tought and the shapes are really poor. Collection after collection they don't show an evolution. The clothes looks rough and they doesn´t fit the body what cause a lack of harmony in the entire collection. And it's such a pity because they have a great potential. At design exploring they get good results but I think the finished product isn't as good as it should. Anyway, Rodarte is a brand in who I trust and I hope it to get one thousand times better.